Does the road wind up-hill all the way?
Yes, to the very end.
Will the day’s journey take the whole long day?
From morn to night, my friend.

Shall I find comfort, travel-sore and weak?
Of labour you shall find the sum.
Will there be beds for me and all who seek?
Yea, beds for all who come. ~ Christina Rossetti

The day before we were to climb to O’Cebreiro, we pulled up limping into the pueblo of Vega de Valcarce. We were on the 4th day of our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain. The day before this day we had made our way down, down, down from the Cruz de Ferro our highest elevation which stands at 4,949 ft. Our legs, especially our calves, ankles and knees ached from the effort of that descent. A clever pilgrim had placed a hand written sign quoting Tom Petty, “Coming down is the hardest thing.” I had to laugh. With my toes scrunched up at the tip of my shoes, I wholeheartedly agreed.

This day we had walked 17 miles and were ready to be through and begin our nightly ritual. This ritual began with a shower (you wouldn’t believe what a difference a shower could make after these arduous days), and then the consumption of a much looked forward to beer (a necessity I tell you), after this ~ food. Food became an altogether different thing on the Camino. The first day out, I ate as I was accustomed to eat at home, in moderation. I almost died. The need of food for strength was just not part of my everyday life. Sure, I got hungry after a good workout or long day, but I had never felt as if I couldn’t take one more step unless I had something to eat. I remember it came to me like a revelation, “So THIS is why we eat, for strength!”

After our beer, we walked to the restaurant. Our saucy waitress took our orders and we waited enjoying our second beer sitting out on the patio, looking out over a little stream that wound its way under a bridge and around the corner, enjoying its own camino. We knew the next day would be monumental. We were climbing to O’Cebreiro which meant a climb of 4,297 ft. On the map it looked so steep I thought we might as well be climbing a wall. To fuel up, I ordered Albóndigas en Salsa Tomate, patatas fritas, and ensalda mixta, (Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, fried potatoes and mixed salad). I ate every. single. bite. Nothing was left, not one drop of sauce that I didn’t sop up with the copious amounts of bread left on the table.

With dinner done, we made our way back to our albergue, told stories and shared laughs with our fellow peregrinos (pilgrims) and turned in for the night. We rose before daybreak wishing “buen camino” to all we met and made our first steps toward O’Cebreiro in the rain. Yes, it rained all the way to the top. We climbed and climbed on the muddy path praying the Gortex and our spirits would hold. What a sight to see! A path of pilgrims summoning their strength, slipping steadily upward, clutching hard their walking staffs, bearing their backpacks as the heavens continually rained down. But see us again at the top full of pride and exhilaration!

My husband’s uncle found me and congratulated my on the climb. I credited my albóndigas for my strength, and I make this dish to bring back all the memories of this day. It is Spanish comfort food and so simply delicious and yes fortifying. I do hope you will give it a try.

*This recipe is adapted from the Spanish cookbook 1080 Recipes.

Ingredients (Serves 6)

MEATBALLS
1 ½ lbs. ground beef
1 sprig parsley, chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 egg, beaten
3/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/2 tsp salt
1/3 cup all purpose flour
1 ¼ cups sunflower oil, or vegetable oil for frying

SAUCE
4 tbsp olive oil
1/3 cup onion, chopped
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped or 1 15oz. can of diced tomatoes
Small pinch of saffron threads
Salt

Instructions

Mix together ground beef, parsley, garlic, egg, bread crumbs and a ½ tsp of salt in a medium bowl.
Shape into meatballs by rolling the between your hands.

Coat the meatballs with flour.

Heat oil in a skillet and fry the meatballs over medium heat until browned all over.
Remove the meatballs from the skillet with a slotted spoon, and pour off the oil.

Add in the olive oil and heat.
Add the onions and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes stirring occasionally.

Add the tomato and cook for 6 to 8 minutes stirring occasionally and breaking them up.

Stir in 2 ½ cups of water and season with salt.
Bring the sauce to a boil then let it cool slightly. Blend the sauce until smooth with an immersion blender, or remove to a regular blender or food processor. Return the sauce to the pan if not processed with an emersion blender and return meatballs to the sauce. Heat over medium heat.
Crush the saffron threads in a mortar and add ½ cup of water, then add to the sauce.
Simmer the meatballs in the sauce for 15 to 20 minutes, and then serve.

¡Buen Camino!